Polysorbate 20 vs. Polysorbate 80: The Emulsifying Odd Couple

(Yes — they’re both bubbly, but oh how they differ!)

Welcome to the grand showdown of the emulsifier world: Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) vs. Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80). In this blog post we’ll dive deep into what each one is, how they’re used (with grams & litres examples, because we still like numbers), how they differ, and how you can decide which one suits your formulation best. Plus — we’ll keep it light, fun and semi‑professional (because who said chemistry blogging has to be dry?).

If you’re shopping for these emulsifiers in the UK, you can find them here:

• Where to buy Polysorbate 20 UK online via HD Chemicals – Polysorbate 20 100%

• Where to buy Polysorbate 80 UK online via HD Chemicals – Polysorbate 80 100%

Let’s get emulsifying!

What Are They? The Basics

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 20 is a non‑ionic surfactant and emulsifier. It’s designed to help oil and water mix nicely. According to the product page it is described as:

“Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) – Emulsifier & Solubilizer for Cosmetics, Skincare & Essential Oils … ideal for lotions, sprays, cleansers, and bath products.”

Key attributes from that page:

• Premium‑grade emulsifier for oil & water mixtures.

• Ideal solubiliser for fragrance and essential oils. 

• Cosmetic/pharmaceutical grade.

• Usage examples: 2 g per 98 mL water base, or 10 mL essential oil + 20 mL polysorbate in 1 L bath water. 

Polysorbate 80

Polysorbate 80 is its heavier‑oil‑loving sibling. Its product page describes it as:

“Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80) – a high‑quality non‑ionic surfactant used as an emulsifier and solubiliser … helps blend heavier oils with water.”

Highlights:

• Superior emulsifier for heavier carrier oils & water blends. 

• Effective solubiliser for fragrance & essential oils. 

• Non‑toxic, biodegradable, skin‑safe.

• Usage example: 2‑5 % (2‑5 g per 100 g formula) in lotions/creams.

How They Work (Without Getting Too Nerdy)

Emulsifiers like polysorbates sit at the oil‑water interface: one end of the molecule likes water (hydrophilic), the other likes oil (lipophilic). They reduce surface tension and allow oil droplets to disperse in water (or vice versa), stabilising the mixture so you don’t get weird oil slicks or separation.

• Polysorbate 20 has a shorter or lighter hydrophobic (oil‑loving) tail compared to Polysorbate 80. That means it’s more suited to lighter oils.

• Polysorbate 80 has a bulkier or heavier‑oil compatible tail, so it can handle thicker carrier oils.
  In short: Think Polysorbate 20 = light essential oils, Polysorbate 80 = heavier carrier oils.

Key Differences At a Glance

Why Does This Matter for Your Formulation?

Here’s where the fun begins — because picking the wrong polysorbate is like picking the wrong dance partner: the moves will look awkward, the mixture might split, and you’ll spend more time cleaning up than formulating.

Example Scenario 1: Room Spray with Essential Oil

You want to make a 500 mL room spray with a blend of light essential oils (say, 10 mL total of essential oils) and water base.

• Use Polysorbate 20.

• For example: Mix 5 mL Polysorbate 20 with 5 mL essential oils, then add to 500 mL distilled water. (That’s following the product’s suggestion exactly.)

• Shake well before each use.

• If you used Polysorbate 80 here instead you might get uneven dispersion or separation because it’s over‑qualified (and a bit mismatched) for light oils.

Example Scenario 2: Rich Lotion with Carrier Oil Blend

You’re making 100 g of rich body lotion, with 20 g heavy carrier oils (say, shea butter melt + castor oil) + water phase 80 g.

• Use Polysorbate 80.

• Add 2–5 g of Polysorbate 80 (2‑5%) to the oil phase before mixing with the water phase and heating to 50‑60 °C for the emulsion to form nicely. If you tried using Polysorbate 20 here, you might see clogging, poorer dispersion, less stable emulsion because the oil load is heavier.

Detailed How‑To Usage Guides (with grams & litres)

Guide A: Using Polysorbate 20

Goal: Make a 1 L bath oil blend (i.e., you’ll add the finished blend to 1 litre of bath water when using).

• Step 1: Measure 10 mL of your essential oil blend.

• Step 2: Measure 20 mL of Polysorbate 20.

• Step 3: Mix the oils + Polysorbate 20 until uniform.

• Step 4: At bath time, add that mixture into 1 L warm bath water → the oils will disperse evenly. (Product page example.) 
  Note: 10 mL oil : 20 mL Polysorbate ≈ 1 : 2 ratio. If you scale up to say 100 mL oil, you’d use 200 mL polysorbate (careful with dilution!).

Alternate: For a facial cleanser: 2 g Polysorbate 20 + 98 mL distilled water + actives. 

Guide B: Using Polysorbate 80

Goal: Create 200 mL rich massage‑oil blend with heavy carrier oils and fragrance.

• Step 1: 150 mL carrier oil (heavy, e.g., castor oil + sweet almond oil).

• Step 2: 20 mL fragrance oil.

• Step 3: Choose Polysorbate 80 at ≈ 3% of total (170 mL total oil/fragrance = ~5.1 mL polysorbate). Let’s approximate to 5 mL.

• Step 4: Mix 150 mL carrier + 20 mL fragrance + 5 mL Polysorbate 80.

• Step 5: Use that blend on skin; the polysorbate helps the heavy oils spread and absorb better. (Inspired by product usage suggestions: “1 part essential oil with 4 parts Polysorbate 80 … mix into 200 mL carrier oil” )

Alternate: For a lotion: 2 g Polysorbate 80 per 100 g formula (that’s 2%) when emulsifying heavy oils & water phases. 

Funny (but true) Anecdotes from the Lab

• When Polysorbate 20 met heavy oil: It’s like handing a sprinter a 50 kg backpack — possible, but heavy and awkward.

• When Polysorbate 80 met feathers (light oils): It’s like using a go‑kart on a racehorse track — overkill and you’ll still win, but maybe less gracefully.

• Mixing without a polysorbate: You’ll end up with floating oil islands, droplet globs and the worst kind of surprise: separation during use.

• Over‑using a polysorbate: “Give me all your emulsifier!” — No. More isn’t always better. Without enough oil to bind, you may end up with weird textures or a “slimy” feel (the emulsifier acts alone). Always match usage percentage to formulation need.

Choosing the Right One: A Decision Tree

1. What oil type are you using?

   • Light essential oils (e.g., lavender, lemon, peppermint): go Polysorbate 20.

   • Heavy carrier oils / thick oils (e.g., castor, olive, shea butter melts): go Polysorbate 80.

2. What product are you making?

   • Room spray / body mist / simple oil in water: Polysorbate 20.

   • Rich cream / lotion / heavy massage oil: Polysorbate 80.

3. What % usage fits your formula?

   • For Polysorbate 20: often 1–5% of total weight/volume. Example: 1–3 g per 100 mL of shampoo base.

   • For Polysorbate 80: often 2–5% when heavy oil loads. Example: 2–5 g per 100 g formula.

4. Check stability — After mixing oil + polysorbate + water, observe:

   • Does the mixture remain homogeneous?

   • Does it separate after sitting for an hour? If yes → consider increasing emulsifier % or using the “heavier” polysorbate (i.e., switch 20 → 80).

5. Feel/test: Is the texture right? For rich creams you want full body; for sprays you want light feel.

Real‑World Example Formulations

Example 1: Room Spray (Light Oils)

• Distilled water: 490 mL

• Essential oils (blend): 10 mL

• Polysorbate 20: 5 mL

• Combine essential oils + Polysorbate 20, then add to water base, shake well.
  Result: A stable spray with no floating oil droplets.

Example 2: Bath Oil Blend (Heavy Carrier + Fragrance)

• Warm blend: 150 mL carrier oil (e.g., sweet almond + jojoba)

• Fragrance oil: 20 mL

• Polysorbate 80: 5 mL (~3% of oil mixture)

• In usage: Add blend to 1 L warm bath water, oils disperse evenly.
  Result: Luxurious bath oil that doesn’t just sit on top of the water.

Example 3: Lotion Emulsion

• Oil phase: 20 g heavy oils + 2 g Polysorbate 80

• Water phase: 78 g distilled water

• Actives (e.g., glycerin, preservatives, etc): 0 g to 100 g total.

• Heat oil & water phases separately to ~55 °C, mix with emulsifier, homogenise, cool to ~40 °C, add actives.
  Result: A stable rich lotion suited for dry skin.

Safety & Handling Notes

• Use for external cosmetic/skincare formulations only. (Both product pages specify “for external use only”.) 

• Avoid direct contact with eyes. Store in a cool, dry place away from sunlight. (Both pages list these safety details.)

• Both are cosmetic/pharmaceutical grade – not necessarily food grade. The product pages explicitly say “No, this version is cosmetic/pharmaceutical grade and not intended for food use.”

• Always patch‑test any new formulation on a small area of skin before widespread use if it’s going to contact skin.

Why Choose HD Chemicals for These?

Since you’re reading this on the blog of the shop itself, let’s highlight why buying these from HD Chemicals Ltd is a solid choice:

• They provide 100% concentrated product (“Polysorbate 20 100%” & “Polysorbate 80 100%”) which means fewer fillers or diluents. 

• Clearly labelled for cosmetic/skincare use, with usage examples and grades.

• Multiple volume options (50 mL up to 1 L) making them suitable for hobbyists and small‑batch formulators alike.

• UK‑based supplier: simplified shipping in the UK, no hideous import headaches.

Summary (Because I Know You Skim)

• Polysorbate 20 = best for light oils, sprays/mists, lighter formulations.

• Polysorbate 80 = best for heavier oils, creams, richer emulsions.

• Choose based on your oil type, formulation type, and usage percentage.

• Use correct grams & litres to ensure a stable emulsion.

• Buy good quality from a trusted supplier (like HD Chemicals) to avoid hidden issues.

• Always handle safely and test appropriately.

Frequently Asked Questions (10 FAQs)

1. What is Polysorbate 20 used for?
   It’s a solubiliser/emulsifier that helps mix oils with water in cosmetic‑skincare and room‑spray formulations.

2. What is Polysorbate 80 used for?
   Similarly an emulsifier/solubiliser, but better adapted to heavier oils and richer formulations (e.g., creams, rich oils).

3. Are they safe for skin?
   Yes — both are cosmetic‑grade, non‑ionic surfactants described as skin‑safe and non‑toxic 

4. Can I use them in food formulations?
   No — the products described are cosmetic/pharmaceutical grade and not intended for food use. 

5. What’s the difference between Polysorbate 20 and 80?
   The main difference is their oil‑phase compatibility: Polysorbate 20 suits lighter oils; Polysorbate 80 suits heavier oils.

6. How much should I use?
   Typically around 1‑5% of the total formulation, depending on how much oil you are emulsifying and how heavy it is. (Example: 2–5 g per 100 g formula for Polysorbate 80). 

7. What happens if I use the wrong one?
   You might get poor dispersion, separation, oily islands, unstable texture, or even a weird feel on the skin.

8. Can I mix them both in one formulation?
   Yes—though usually unnecessary. If you have a mix of oils (light + heavy) you might adjust your emulsifier strategy, but often it’s simpler to pick the one that matches your dominant oil load.

9. Do they change the texture of the final product?
   Yes — choosing the right emulsifier and correct percentage affects the texture, stability, feel, absorption, finish. A mismatch can result in greasy feel, separation, or sub‑par user experience.

10. How should I store them?
    In a cool, dry place, tightly sealed, away from direct sunlight. And always keep them labelled and with safety instructions for external use only.

Thank you for reading this deep dive into Polysorbate 20 vs Polysorbate 80! If you’re ready to formulate, get your hands on the ingredients from HD Chemicals now and mix with confidence. Happy emulsifying!